In Kauai and finally not too tired to write down an account of all our latest adventures.
We flew into Lihu'e at noon on
Tuesday and were so exhausted from our late night/early morning that we had a mellow afternoon. We drove on up to Anahola to find our VRBO rental (Hale Kikoo) and met a maintenance dude who used to live in Eugene. He pointed us in the direction of Papaya - a local natural food store in the town of Kapa'a - which makes the absolutely best fish tacos we have ever had. Every day we try to find a place that makes tacos as good and so far we haven't been able to top it. On our way out of Kapa'a we stopped at the farmer's market for fresh fruit. We love the woman running the fruit stand! Right away she offered us samples of a strawberry papaya. Thankfully, neither of us said, "No thank you, we aren't fans of papaya," because we absolutely LOVED the papaya! Oh my goodness, if only I had a papaya like this in the past! We promptly bought several papaya, along with fresh pineapple, bananas and a couple of not-yet-ripe mangos (they picked them out for us - 3 days in a bag and we should be ready). She also gave us half of some fruit that we didn't quite catch the name of - white fleshy fruit with brown inedible skin - also very sweet and unique. After our fish taco adventure, we also decided we needed fresh fish for dinner. Apparently, the place to go in Kapa'a is Foodland. Go figure. I guess if you live here you know this, because it was quite a little traffic jam at the fish counter. We headed down to Anahola Beach to hang out and relax for a bit - walked in the surf and at the mouth of the Anahola River. We called it an early night and climbed under the mosquito netting (over the bed) to pass out.

Wednesday was the first day of adventures. We woke up before dawn and headed back down to Anahola Beach to catch the sunrise. Beautiful! We came back to Hale Kikoo to eat piles of fruit for breakfast. Before long we were on the road to do some snorkeling along the North Shore. We were going to go to Hideaways Beach (Pali Ke Kua) and Queen's Bath, but enroute got reoriented towards Ke'e Beach. Ke'e is at the end of the road, right at the beginning of the Na Pali Coast. We had some fun snorkeling along the reef and even saw a monk seal quite close up. There were supposed to be turtles close by, but would couldn't catch a glimpse of them even when we swam out of the protected area to search them down. Ah well.



We headed in to Hanalei for a fish taco lunch and some rainbow shave ice (with macademia nut ice cream) and had a chat with a haole (i.e. Caucasian) about the area. After some long debating over weather to do a catamaran trip along the Na Pali Coast (and what day based on what was available), we finally made a decision and planned it based on what the weather may provide. We drove back to Hale Kikoo, switched into hiking gear, then headed into Kapa'a to pick up some more fruit.
After our errands we drove out to take on the Makaleha hike at the end of Kahuna Road. This hike was marked as an "adventure" in the guidebook and that it was. The trail is not easy to find and it is a bit of a mix between bushwaking and trail walking. We were up for the adventure, but time was not on our side...we only had a couple of hours before dark. So we ventured through a bamboo forest and climbed over boulders, scaling our way up and down along the stream. We went as far as we thought reasonable and turned back around in time to walk out before dark. Sometimes it is about the journey and not about the destination. It was a great venture through the Hawaiian rainforest - some incredible trees and all of the adventure it was meant to be (even if we didn't make it to the waterfalls). Cameron did have a little accident with sliding down a rock and into bamboo. The good - the bamboo broke his fall. The bad - bamboo is not soft. Fortunately, this wound, although it does not look so good, is less of a burden than the blister he got from the flippers of the snorkel gear. That wound has been much more troublesome!


We returned home tired, but happy. We made our big fish dinner and slumped into sleep.
Thursday was one long adventure along the Na Pali Coast. We got up a little later, feasted on more fruit, then headed north once again. Destination - the Kalalau Trail that takes you along the Na Pali coastline for a couple of miles. After the beach destination, you need a permit to continue on and it is quite a few miles before you hit another viewpoint so usually you backpack in. It's a rugged 2 miles, but not a bad hike. There were toddlers and teens, barefeet and boots, bikinis and blue jeans...and tons of people! Tons and tons! Hanakapi'ai Beach is a great destination, but the hike to it is really what it is all about. The views of the coastline are amazing. We hiked another 1.8 miles up the Hanakapi'ai Valley to the falls. Along the trail we came across an ancient (?) Hawaiian homestead complete with rock walls and some sort of rock structure (maybe one of their temples to the gods?). There were some newer "ruins" also present, but clearly of the 20th century. As for the falls...spectacular! Wow! If it wasn't a tad chilly up there, we could have swam right under the falls, what a tempting blue pool! The falls were simply splendid and I would highly recommend it for anyone up to the hike.



The eight mile hike (plus photo stops and other such breaks to check out the scenery) took up most of our day and most of our energy. We returned home to make some dinner and with big plans to go and walk along the beach at dusk. We were barely awake enough to finish watching the Kauai visitor's guide before passing out.
Friday became another day of mixed adventures. We got up early and packed our fruit to-go. We headed up the Nounou Mt Trail to catch the view from the top of the Sleeping Giant. And what a view it was! We could see from the mountain side above the Hanalei River to the mountain side above the Hule'ia River south of Lihu'e and all the area inbetween. It was a great way to get your bearings of the eastern half of the island. The walk itself was relatively short (something like the Spencer Butte trail from Fox Hollow for the Eugeneans). There were a lot of locals taking the hike for exercise.


From the trailhead we drove down the Wailua River valley and stopped at an overlook of the river and the 'Opaeka'a Falls (151 feet). A little pig was the toast of the town as a local paraded it around for a few bucks. The poor little piggy was afraid of a yapping little white dog and snuffled along over my feet leaving little muddy noseprints. Funny!


We headed from the east shore south to Koloa and Po'ipu. This is the land of sun and we got a full day of it! We headed to Po'ipu Beach to do a little snorkeling. It was jam packed full of people. My goodness, so many people! We had a good time and caught some views of fish we hadn't seen before. Part of the promotory was roped off due to a visiting monk seal. According to the TV visitor's guide, there are only about 30 or 35 around Kauai, so we've seen two already, that's pretty good!
We left to find fish for lunch (this seems to be the theme, doesn't it?) and hit the Koloa Fish Market in downtown Koloa. It was take-out only so we grabbed our food and went to the grocery store to also grab a couple of beers. At the store we asked the cashier for a suggestion on where to go to eat and got the answer of the baseball field. On our way out the door, the woman who had been in front of us in line stopped us and gave us a better suggestion.
We headed back down Po'ipu Road to the Maha'ulepu Beaches and found ourselves in paradise. It was quiet (very few people), tons of shade, and absolutely gorgeous. We ate lunch in Kawailoa Bay - my goodness, it was tasty fish! Then we relaxed in a shady spot on the beach. I took a little nap while Cameron snapped some shots and "snoozed". After our afternoon break, we walked further down the coast line to two more beaches complete with rocky cliffs, lithfied sandstone, dry blowholes, and incredible views of the coast. The rocks were very sharp, but the walking was easy. And it is completely worth ducking through the fence to see the last beach, trust us.




We took the scenic route back home and drove along the Huleia River. Also totally worth it! What a quiet road, nearly no traffic, and exceptional views of mountains and the river. We stopped back by our favorite daily market - Papaya - for water (we refill the gallon jugs daily) and a few additions. On the way back to Anahola, there were still a few minutes of sunlight so we headed out the Kealia Road to see if we could get back into this plateau of trees we had seen from the top of the Sleeping Giant. Unfortunately, we had to stop at the monument a sugar baron made to himself because the road appeared to end.

We returned to Hale Kikoo to make giant salads complete with fresh island avocado and relax. Long day! Right now it is pouring down rain - the first time since we arrived so I count us as lucky. Cameron was sound asleep until the rain kicked into high gear and is now wondering why I am still on the computer. So off to bed! Sorry, no pictures for now, I think I've done quite enough for the evening. Sorry if there are typos...to tired to go back and check for now. I'll have to update that later ;-)
Tomorrow...if the weather holds we will be on a catamaran up the Na Pali coast and snorkeling offshore. Oh, life is so tough here ;-)